Against The Water Category_MILITARY Matilda's compartmentalised life goes seriously
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Against The Water Category_MILITARY Matilda's compartmentalised life goes seriouslyThe gut wrenching story of how one of Australias finest surfers overcame a brain injury and despair to win an Olympic medal. On the morning of 10 December 2015, Owen Wright entered the water at Pipeline, Hawaii, determined to become a world champion. But after being pounded by a set of monstrous waves, he ended up fighting for life and facing extensive brain trauma. In this inspirational memoir, Wright chronicles the events leading up to that fateful
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